Food & Drink

One of Charlotte’s favorite Jewish deli spots is making a comeback at City Kitch

Charlotteans who have missed chef Rob Clement’s robust, wholesome takes on the traditional Jewish deli experience are in for a treat: Meshugganah, his deli concept that rose to popularity during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, has returned to City Kitch.

Clement will re-open Meshugganah in west Charlotte at City Kitch on Feb. 18, beginning with lunch service Wednesday-Friday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Orders will be available for pickup or by delivery via Toast Tab. He will also do catering.

The opening lunch menu will include pastrami sandwiches, matzo ball soup, kugel and potato knishes. Desserts, including iconic black and white cookies, will be made in partnership with local Metzger’s Bakery.

A chef wearing a white “Meshugganah” baseball cap, a grey shirt, and a dark apron carefully ladles a matzo ball from a large metal pot into a small brown paper cup while wearing blue latex gloves and working in a professional kitchen environment.
Chef Rob Clement doles out bowls of matzo ball soup in the kitchen at Meshugganah. Timothy DePeugh CharlotteFive
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“I’m so happy to be back in the kitchen,” Clement said.

Meshugganah first took off in 2020 as a food truck concept that did pop-ups all over Charlotte. Masked crowds flocked to Clement’s traditional Jewish deli food with a Southern twist, which included pimento cheese potato knishes, as well as a dark and brooding matzo ball gumbo.

It grew into a ghost kitchen space at City Kitch. Clement, leaving Meshugganah behind, then worked with Jon Dressler to open Joan’s Bakery.

A close-up of a thick pastrami sandwich served on seeded rye bread. The sandwich is sliced in half and resting on white deli paper, revealing layers of thinly sliced, steamed pink meat with a visible spice rub on the edges.
Thick, fatty cuts of pastrami on rye bread at Meshugganah. Timothy DePeugh CharlotteFive

However, in 2025, tragedy struck: Clement’s wife, Franki, passed away from cancer. Clement made the difficult decision at that point to step away from the kitchen to focus on his two children.

But demand for Meshugganah remained, which eventually coaxed Clement to get back into the kitchen.

A close-up of a black serving platter filled with Jewish deli desserts. In the foreground are several large black-and-white cookies with their signature half-chocolate, half-vanilla icing. In the background are several small, golden-brown rugelach pastries.
At Meshugganah, you’ll find black and white cookies from local Metzger’s Bakery. Timothy DePeugh CharlotteFive

“When my wife died, I just didn’t want to be in the kitchen anymore,” Clement said. “But after six months, I got tired of not cooking. The kitchen is where I’m meant to be.”

Fans of Meshugganah will rejoice that Clement has brought back the pastrami. He takes beef brisket and brines it for an entire week, after which he smokes it for 12 hours before steaming for service. The pastrami is served on a sandwich with Lusty Monk mustard from Asheville, and the flavors are never-ending.

A single serving of matzo ball soup in a brown paper cup sits on a stainless steel table next to a black laptop keyboard and tablet. The soup contains a large, fluffy matzo ball, shredded chicken, and sliced carrots in a clear broth.
Matzo ball soup with an unexpected secret ingredient. Timothy DePeugh CharlotteFive

And the matzo balls — so light that they defy the laws of physics, floating in a rich, dreamy broth with shredded chicken and carrots. His secret to getting them so fluffy? Topo Chico seltzer water, which he gently folds into the dough.

With this new incarnation of Meshugganah, Clement hopes to show customers that he’s back. During his food truck days, a lot of the food Clement sold — all based on the types of dishes he had growing up — was the first time he had made it.

“I made, like, one pastrami before I started selling on the truck.”

Experience and just plain gumption have influenced his new recipes, so customers will not only see that he’s back, but that he’s also better than ever.

A detailed, close-up shot of a platter of kugel. The kugel is cut into square portions, showing a dense, baked texture with wide egg noodles and dark raisins, featuring a crispy, golden-browned top layer.
Delicately sweet cinnamon and raisin kugel at Meshugganah. Timothy DePeugh CharlotteFive

Meshugganah

Location: City Kitch, 2200 Thrift Rd, Charlotte, NC 28208

Cuisine: Jewish deli

Instagram: @meshugganah

A wide shot of a professional kitchen during a media event or interview. In the foreground, a stainless steel table holds platters of kugel, black-and-white cookies, and wrapped sandwiches. In the background, a chef talks to a reporter taking notes while another person holds a professional camera with a flash.
A nice Jewish deli spread at Meshugganah. Timothy DePeugh CharlotteFive

This story was originally published February 12, 2026 at 5:30 AM with the headline "One of Charlotte’s favorite Jewish deli spots is making a comeback at City Kitch."

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Timothy DePeugh
The Charlotte Observer
Timothy DePeugh is a Charlotte food writer. He has won two NC Press Association Awards for his restaurant reviews and food features. When he’s not writing, he’s living the corporate life as a number cruncher. Tim loves his cat Goma, loves wine, loves Broadway and movies, and is a color guard fanatic. Find him on Instagram @timtimtokyo.
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